Letter from the Indies - Antigua

by Andrea and Ian Treleaven on 29 Nov 2008 Andrea and Ian Treleaven have been cruising in the Caribbean accompanied by their daughter Jane. As she leaves, they continue with their tales of sailing Guadeloupe and Antigua.

Our pina-colada-loving daughter is now enroute to race in the Kings Cup Regatta in Thailand. Hopefully by the time she arrives the Bangkok airport will have re-opened.

The last part of her voyage took us to Guadeloupe and through the river canal that divides the butterfly shaped island. We explored Basse Terre, the mountainous side, with a Rainforest National Park and cascading

waterfalls. The wet season is over but the rivers are torrential and a swim in fresh water is a welcome massage.

Pointe-A Pitre, the main port, is a surprisingly pretty town with colourful shops and no open drains although the market turns out a little differently. The yellow and red tartan costumed local with bright orange lipstick is worth a photo. As Ian plans to purchase a pineapple, I take up the camera but the mood swings and as Ian declines the pineapple he is pelted with mangoes. A good laugh but by the look of the locals faces, it’s all happened before.

Back at the marina we are surprised at how different a

place can be at a different time of the year. Our last visits have been mid to late winter and the sea is a beautiful blue. Now it's late summer and the marina waters are brown and smelly. It’s still dark at our 4am wakeup call but we have to be there by the only time the two canal bridges open. Passing the mangrove sided river we navigate the green and red lights to reach the open sea on the north coast. Our two metre draft is pushing mud at times but we get through with the company of four catamarans who have no problem - except the first green navigation light after the first bridge is now reversed as we are suddenly exiting the river, not entering

it.

We are all off to Antigua 40 miles away so, unbeknown to the catamarans, a race is on! Giving them a little handicap we anchor off a coral reef for breakfast. In perfect sailing conditions we overtake three of the four catamarans… Ian’s excuse for second place was that he had to slow down to get the 10 kilo Dorado on board half way across.

Antigua is always a safe haven with its two naturally [Sorry, this content could not be displayed] enclosed harbours, English and Falmouth. More superyachts and mega motorboats appear every day for the beginning of the season. For the young adventurers of the sea, go get your certificates, as there’s plenty of work on these vessels.

Patricia Burnett-Stuart, with whom we stayed in France, is here visiting her daughter Julia who works on a super cruiser. The nights are long for the younger crowd, first meeting up at Skullduggery Bar for an Espresso Martini and onto one of the many other bars.

Espresso Martini:

1 part Crème de Cacao, 1 part Tia Maria, 1 part Vodka, 1 part Espresso. Add all ingredients into cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain into large cocktail glass.

The Antiguan Sunday starts at the surfing beach Half Moon Bay. Cars are backed to the white sand, huge speakers beat out the reggae music, so if it’s a quiet day at the beach you desire, then forget it. In the evening it’s up to Shirley Heights and the steel band beating out and a rum punch in hand.

The versatile lime - always plentiful and always a basket full at hand. A native of the East Indies, it came to these islands on ships to stave off scurvy. Thriving in the tropics, there are several types but the one I look for is larger, juicer and slightly sweeter, called Citrus Xlatifolia. Used in most recipes from cocktails, marinating fish to health remedies, its uses are endless. Instead of salt try a squeeze of lime to enhance the meal or try some in whipped cream it will help keep its firmness.

Life is not always able to be planned. The smell of smoke leads us to find the water maker has fried some wires. Ian gives me the look which says, 'I have something to fix!' and on goes his electrician's hat. Getting

professionals, or, for that matter, someone to work is impossible, so it is a learning process as we do it ourselves with the help of onshore advice.

Lord Nelson spent time in English Harbour while his ship was being built and said “when she is finished I will be under sail and leave all the mosquitoes behind”.

I couldn’t agree more.