Freedom and Adventure: Tanna Volcano & Cultural Village

Freedom and Adventure perfect sail © Andrew and Clare Payne / Freedom and Adventure

We are having a very happy and interesting time in Vanuatu. Before we arrived in Port Villa we were relying on out of date Cruising Guides for information which didn't paint a very rosy picture. Upon arrival, what a pleasant surprise to find a developing and bustling city.

We also have many cruising friends here. Some, like us are staying for a few months to explore the surrounding islands. Others are passing through on their way to New Zealand or Australia. The group below is typical of the nightly round up for happy hour at the Waterfront Restaurant. A good time to catch up with friends and meet new arrivals.

A Terrific Mini Holiday

On Friday we flew 120 miles south to the island of Tanna and stayed at the Evergreen Resort for three nights. It was a wonderful break from routine in a beautiful location. We enjoyed being waited on with serviced rooms and lovely meals in the restaurant. We slept peacefully each night, had breakfast overlooking the ocean then soaked up the morning sun and swam in the pool before venturing out on our excursions; a great way to start the day.

Yasur Volcano

We decided to do two half day excursions, one to Mount Yasur which is said to be the Worlds Most Accessible Active Volcano Tour and the following day we did the Louinio Primitive Cultural Village Tour. The volcano trip departed the resort at 2pm and we returned at 9pm. It was a ninety minute road trip across the island to get to the volcano. This gave us a good look at the lush countryside, small settlements, the main town of Lenakel, spectacular ocean views and Yasur volcano from a distance. Towards the end of the trip the road was very bumpy, good thing we were in a 4WD. Some of the tourists had to sit on seats in the back of the Isuzu D-Max which would have been cold and uncomfortable. However both Andrew and I got a seat in the cabin as we were probably the oldest people on the trip. Occasionally, our senior years has an advantage:)

So they weren't kidding when they said Yasur was the worlds most accessible volcano. We took the 4WD most of the way up and then walked to the top of the mountain and around the edge of the volcano. A lot of smoke, ash, gas and a lot of rumbling with the occasional burp of fire and lava. When the first burp of fire and lava erupted the girl next to me screamed and ran and hid behind her boyfriend. He was no where big enough to protect her from anything:) Predictably it was very windy on the mountain and so we got covered with grit and ash. It was in our hair, our eyes and the gas was choking. We could smell the gas on us the next day even after a shower and change of clothes. I think the most amazing thing was that there were no security rails. At one viewing area there was a flimsy rail which we were told not to lean on. To get to the best viewing place it was necessary to walk uphill along the edge of the volcano on a path just wide enough for two people to pass. There was a steep drop on each side of the path, one side went down into the volcano and the side went down the outside of the volcano. So I decided the last elevation wasn't for me, the path was too narrow and it was very windy. So I gave the camera to Andrew and asked him to get some good photos for the blog. We came off the mountain after dark and made our way back down by torch light.

Luinio Primitive Village

The next day's excursion to the Louinio Primitive Cultural Village (Yakel tribe) was like stepping back in time and a very pleasant experience. These friendly village people are intent on preserving their culture and live as much as possible untouched by western influence. We were met by the female guide, the daughter of the chief, who was one of few villagers who spoke English. She showed us their vegetable gardens, fruit and nut trees. We were invited into a hut to eat a traditional dish of cassava (like potato) and spinach, cooked in a banana leaf. Below is a photo of two huts, our guide explained that the hut where the roof goes to the ground is considered cyclone proof.

However when cyclone Pam swept through the village in 2015 nothing was saved. Our guide said everything went including all vegetation. The village people had a clear view to the ocean some miles away. Relief came very quickly from Australia with volunteers building temporary accommodation and providing food. We saw how the men start a fire by rubbing two stick together and the village people sang and danced for us. The people dress in traditional grass skirts and nambas (penis cover). The only time they wear western clothes is when they leave the village and go to town. The children walk an hour to school and home again. When they arrive home, off come the school uniforms and primitive life continues. All the kids we saw were having great fun playing together.

Andrew's great, great uncle John G Paton lived and worked in Vanuatu as a missionary around 1860. We went in search for the Paton Memorial Church (PMC for short) which is named after his wife Margaret Whitecross Paton. The A frame construction is nestled on the hillside and we can see it from our boat in the harbour. There was a hospital here also named after John Paton, however that is no longer standing. The church is still an integral part of the community.

From OZ

Yesterday we had lunch at the home of a new friend, Michael, an Australian who has his home is Sydney but also a house here in Vanuatu. Andrew met Michael via the radio when talking to one of our cruising friends Larry on 'Serengetti' who arrived in Australia last year. We mentioned to Larry that we were heading for Vanuatu and Michael popped up from Sydney and introduced himself. He said he was flying into Vanuatu on Wednesday 25th September and would love to meet us. So we had a very enjoyable afternoon with Michael and Nan yesterday and they are coming for a visit on Eye Candy this afternoon.

So What's Next

Tonight we will sail seventy miles north to the next island of Epi. This is a remote island with a small village. Other cruisers have reported many huge turtles and dugongs in the bay. We are looking forward to crystal clear water again. At 25 degrees, the water is a little cooler than we are used to but I'm sure we will cope:)

Over the next few weeks we will continue north to Luganville which is the next biggest town in Vanuatu. We probably won't have much phone or internet coverage between Port Vila and Luganville and so any contact will be made via Sailmail.

This article has been provided courtesy of the Freedom and Adventure.