Copenhagen and North to Sweden

by SV Taipan on 5 Jul 2017 Now sitting aboard in Hals, a really small village in a pretty farming area at the mouth of the Limjforden in Denmark. Its been a bit of a journey and yes we did go to Copenhagen. Our arrival in Copenhagen was thankfully in lovely weather. A false start saw us tied to the wall in AmalieHaven, a large open dock area immediately in front of the Admiralty Hotel. Not an unpleasant place but decidedly busy on a Sunday. There was a lot of activity, music and parties, including swimming in the canal!. It seems that on a nice sunny day Danes bring their chairs to the city docks and sit, watch and get sun burned!

We went ashore for a reconnoiter to the Ny Haven dock which was our preferred location and ascertained there was space so quickly returning to Taipan we made the short hop to Ny Haven. Central downtown Copenhagen. We had been told the dock walls were very high but this proved to be incorrect and access ashore was easy enough. There's power and water available and a pay machine at the end of the dock which was happy to accept our card for 320Dkr per night. (About Aussie $60) The guide books also say it is reserved for boats over 15 meters. There were smaller boats in there.

By chance we were befriended at the Rosenborg Castle early in our exploration, by Kirsten, a spritely older lady, who took it upon herself to show us the sights of Copenhagen. We walked the beautiful gardens of the Rosenborg Castle then wandered to Amalienborg Palace precinct, the home of the Dutch royal family including our Tasmanian Mary!

Next we visited The Round Tower, up which some Russian Czar reputedly rode his horse and which we climbed for a view of the city. Built in 1642 with an observatory in the top, it was built as the first part of a church complex bringing together an astronomical observatory, a student church and a University library.

The following day we trekked to Christiania a 35ha piece of land, it is now an autonomous neighbourhood of Copenhagen. Established in 1971 by a group of squatters and harassed by police for years as they continued to squat in the disused military facilities. In 2011 it gained a sort of independence and is tolerated within the City. Heavily involved in the drug trade in Copenhagen there have been incidents of on going violence as the control of this market is wrestled from one biker group to another and the Christianites try to maintain some control of the situation.

Alas the time comes all to soon when we have to depart this lovely city and make our way north. Next stop Helsingoer Splendid day for a sail and its only 25nm. The weather closing in again so its a forgone conclusion we will be stuck there for a day or two.

The approach to the marina is guarded by the spectacular Renaissance Kronborg Castle. Our entrance to the marina was unremarkable in that we actually found a side too berth on the end of a hammerhead. The only kind we like. These bow-in, between pole jobbies are not a Taipan speciality! Safely tied alongside we immediately went to find the Pay Machine. Always such a disappointment then you arrive in a place to only find a machine. These machines have no information and no friendly advice. They just take your money and spit out a tag. Scandanavia could certainly use a few lessons in marina management from Yacht Haven Phuket!!!

Helsingor is a quite delightful town and luckily we visited on the evening of our arrival to dine in the main street because the following days were rainy and miserable. The excellent and award winning maritime museum designed by Bjarke Ingels Group opened in October 2013. It is situated in a disused dry dock.

Cunningly constructed to evoke shipboard sensibilities with unusual floor angles and construction enabling the transfer of sound as one would expect to hear aboard ship. It has wonderful light and space. The exhibits were of a high standard and good interactive displays in English available. Kronborg Castle beckoned but we declined to visit the interior as all up the costs are quite high. We must leave something to come back for.

Clear weather again but not a big window. Off to Sweden!

This article has been provided courtesy of the SV Taipan.