Letter from the Med- Cadiz Spain to Mohammedia

by Ian and Andrea Treleaven on 11 Oct 2007 Hi Everyone,

On a clear blue calm day sailing past Cape Trafalgar, the sight of one of the most historic naval battles in 1805.

Then rounding Tarifa on the south western corner of Spain we could see North Africa only 10 miles away it seemed so close we could reach out and grab it. We have sailed 1400 nautical miles from Les Sables France to Gibraltar the most southern tip of our European Atlantic Coastal trip this year. The trip down the coast was very kind to us, not a lot of wind but some great places full of history. A lot more enjoyable than we thought it was going to be.

Getting the tide right through the Straits of Gibraltar is very important as at one point we had 4 knots going with us. What more could we ask for in Gibraltar, rain, fish and chips for lunch, a Rugby game, England v Tonga in the ‘Lord Nelson Bar’ all adding up to, one day is enough. Gibraltar has changed into a development site, it is no longer easy to have work done on boats and the chandlery shops are almost non existent.

The weather is perfect so we go down memory lane and cruise 50nm into the Mediterranean along the Costa de Sol as far as Malaga. It has been 5 years since we where here and it had some surprises. The prices have more than doubled in the marinas (Puerto Banus now Euro 130 per night) and harder to get a berth. Resorts and high rise apartments have multiplied.

Always great to catch up with friends, David and Jane Earl collect us and introduce us to Tapas Malaga style in the old town. Intermit and surrounded by hanging food, the bar covered in ready made pots of seafood stew, stuffed peppers and mushrooms all washed down with plenty of red wine.

At Marbella marina we are joined by John and Andrea Connolly and a night of torrential rain as we visit Puerto Banus. Gibraltar for one night, top up with cheap diesel (the only cheap thing) and Morocco here we come, dodging all the ships as we cross the shipping lanes to North Africa.

Morocco

Travelling with two ‘look a like’ grey Steve Martins and two blonde Andreas we don’t exactly blend in. Arriving in the Port of Tangier after four hours crossing the strait we are all very excited, this is different but how different? Hundreds of men and boys line the fishing port waiting for work as we motor pass the numerous colourful fishing boats. The small yacht marina is full so rafting up is the only option, the old Medina rising up in front of us with the sounds of the Minaret ringing out.

We haven’t finished mooring and the touts are already there offering their services as guides. Customs and police visit for check in, a procedure that takes place at every port in Morocco. By the time we navigate our way into the Medina, passing all the pestering men, and into the market we are shell shocked. Its one hour before 6pm when Ramadan closes everything down for 2 hours. Ramadan is probably not the best time to be here, fasting all day and eating through the night makes the men grumpy. Restaurants are closed and we have to resort to eating at tourist’s spots which are very disappointing.

We had not realised this was in place, 21 days of daytime fasting with 10 days to go. A frenzy of people mostly men and we are not made welcome. I went to buy bread and they wouldn’t serve me; they would only take the order from Ian and then Andreas face tells a story as we enter the souk, it’s claustrophobic, smells of raw meet, spices and olives, you could cut the air. The refuge of an International Hotel was welcoming and beers flowed as we gathered ourselves in this Moroccan style hotel. By the time we are back to the comfort of ‘Finisterre’ we are a little bewildered and have an Aussie BBQ that night.

Arranging a tour guide for the next day we enjoy a drive through the green affluent areas over looking the Medina through, palms, bougainvillea and white arches but of course this is only a small part of Tangier, we are soon back in the madness. On one hand it is very fascinating but on the other we are very on guard and very alert. Taking photos is becoming difficult, as I am thumped on the back or given the eye sign.

Happy to leave rounding Cap Spartel Light House where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic and the two currents cause overflows. Asilah, originally a Phoenician port with a 15th century fortified medina built by the Portuguese is our next stop. We are the only yacht to anchor for the night with facilities only for the fisherman. Going in at high tide knowing we have only just enough water under us at low tide with no where else to go is a little worrying. Ashore, inside a high stone wall is a clean white medina, blue doors, hanging bougainvillea and the usual colourful, useless to us, souvenirs.

Showing us around is Zakaria who befriended us while moored along us in Tangier and has met up with us again in Asilah. So good to talk to someone Moroccan and educated you get a better understanding of the place explaining about the faith and lifestyle. The Portuguese left here in the late 15 Hundreds and then they got there independence from France in 1956. Not a lot has changed in 1000 years.


What excitement when Ian and John caught the first fish! Under full sail we motor backwards, thinking we had once again hooked another piece of rubbish, then to see this beautiful big fish. We don’t know what it is but the colours of yellow and green glisten in the mid day sun. Pity we had to kill it (winch handle comes in handy) blood everywhere, but now we have eaten it; I have to say it’s the best piece of fish I have eaten in along time. Would you believe it but then we caught on our cheapest lure another one the next day, so guess who the expert fisherman is now?

After a very long day at sea approaching Mohammedia at night we are confused by a very strong continuous red light. One minute it seems like it is very close and we alter coarse thinking it’s a boat. For 16 miles the light continues to baffle us. It’s not until the next day visiting the Hassan 11 Mosque in Casablanca that we learn from here a laser beam shines east towards Mecca. A bit confusing for navigation but we are constantly on the look out as many fishing boats carry no lights and charted shore beacons are not working.

As we are in a safe port we are taking the opportunity to go inland with John and Andrea to visit Cassablanca, Fes and Marrakesh.

Cheers Andrea and Ian