RoRC Report from Spruce in Panama, Central America
by Sue & Andy Warman 17 Dec 2021 20:58 UTC
Carpe Diem Departs for the Canal © Sue & Andy Warman
Spruce arrived in Balboa, Panama, on 28th August. Thirty days and 4,225 miles after leaving from Hiva Oa in the Marquises. Half the trip was with wind ahead of the beam, but mostly not too strong.
Once the Equatorial Current had been crossed, and the favourable counter-current located, progress eastwards was better than anticipated. The wind moved to well abaft the beam and failed us during only the last two days.
Shortly after we departed, French Polynesia suffered an escalation in Covid infections with new lock-downs imposed. Some friends have now "parked" their boats and gone home to work for a few months. Until destinations to the west open, boats continue to back up. Reports from friends still in French Polynesia indicate the authorities are losing patience with crews who arrive unannounced. Such vessels are being given a few days for resupply and then told to leave. One example, who arrived in the Marquises needing repairs, was not allowed to leave their arrival port. Others are being sent westwards or to Hawaii. One Australian yacht who was given permission to arrive from Mexico and stay 90-days, en route to Australia, was refused a hopeful application to extend. They went on to Fiji: after 12 years cruising and avoiding cyclone zones, they fear they might be staying in Fiji for the coming cyclone season. If they do return to Australia, Queensland, they will be required to fund five people in expensive shore-side quarantine...and then not be allowed to leave Australia until rules change. The situation is in a state of flux as we write this report.
The agent we commissioned to handle our arrival in Panama provided an excellent service. Our Covid test samples were done on board, results returned in a couple of hours, medical approval to enter was granted. Immigration had us stamped into Panama within 8hrs of arrival. The rest of the formalities were completed the following day. Four days after arrival, Spruce popped out of the Panama Canal's Gatun locks into the Caribbean Sea. It is not a busy time of year, no other yachts were going our way and few moving towards the Pacific. Our rationale for the rapid transit was to be on the Atlantic side of the canal, in case any other Covid surprises should emerge.
Several OCC member boats are in Shelter Bay Marina. Not all have crews aboard. Two Danish OCC craft left for the Pacific (s/y Carpe Diem and s/y Touche), as did s/y Three Ships after repairing a gearbox problem caused by a brief encounter with a discarded net. Other members planning to transit the canal soon include s/y Enjoy, going north to Costa Rica and on to Mexico, and s/y Lupina will be heading west to Galapagos and French Polynesia.
Due to Covid's advent last year, many boats were unexpectedly left unattended while owners flew home. Now crews are starting to return. Some arrive to unwelcome complications. One vessel stored ashore had a termite infestation. Others return to dead batteries, green algae, mould, excessive underwater fouling and a variety of the issues typically discovered when boats are left in humid tropical environments for extended periods.
International travel restrictions are now showing glimmers of easing. Certainly, the wealthier nations are close to completing vaccination programmes. However, we should remain sensitive: several of the more remote and perhaps less affluent lands, which are often more intriguing for cruisers to visit, may not yet feel sanguine about receiving visitors into their communities. People may be hurting economically but many might also be frightened that should an increase in infections arrive, with re-emergent tourism, their health systems might not cope. Although we cruisers from the wealthier nations are starting to think the end is in sight, for those communities with low vaccination levels and limited health service provision not much may yet have changed in practical terms.
We hear some US insurance companies limit the number of boats simultaneously covered in the Pacific. Due to a backlog of boats already approved some will have to wait until another year. In a similar vein, the glut of boats waiting to leave NZ for the South Pacific, the bulge of craft eager to go west from French Polynesia and those poised to depart from Mexico and Panama suggests anchorages could be more crowded on the usual routes during 2022. Perhaps something to bear in mind when planning one's itinerary.
After the Caribbean hurricane season, and another 5,000 miles heading northeast, we should arrive back in UK waters during June 2022. We hope for a little dallying en-route in the Greater Antilles and Bahamas before heading across the Atlantic towards the Azores in late April.
This article has been provided by the courtesy of Ocean Cruising Club.