Freedom and Adventure: Port Stanley Vanuatu
by Andrew & Clare Payne 22 Jul 2022 05:09 UTC
Freedom and Adventure - Karl and Nora's Home © Andrew & Clare Payne
True to forecast, it was a very windy weekend at Port Stanley on the island of Malakula in Vanuatu. We were tucked up behind the mangroves in calm water, contemplating a very wet trip in our rubber dinghy to visit our friends, Karl and family, in the nearby village.
However, Karl came to Eye Candy with his wife Nora and three daughters in their fibreglass boat. They were on their way to the community garden and said they would pick us up in an hour and take us to their home. Nora had prepared a traditional Lap Lap meal and we were invited to dine with the family at 2pm.
A Village Experience
Karl and Nora's house was just lovely and well established. They have done a lot of work since Andrew helped Karl install wires for 12volt electric light three years ago. The bottom part of the walls are made of concrete blocks. On top of that, the walls are made of woven bamboo and a roof made of second hand roofing iron. The floor is lino on concrete and the bamboo walls inside are covered with colourful material.
The house has two bedrooms and a lounge room and a family area on the porch. There is a separate kitchen off the porch and a toilet and bathroom currently under construction out the back. Nora has made a very nice garden with flowering plants and vegetables in abundance.
Traditional Lap Lap
We sat on the floor in the porch area for lunch. Firstly we washed our hands and were given a clean towel each. There were bowls of water laid out for washing whilst eating the traditionally way, with our fingers. Lap Lap is made from Taro (root vegetable) banana and fish. It is cooked in banana leaves on hot stones for 2 hours. When opened up, fresh coconut milk is liberally sprinkled over the food and small bowls of coconut milk available for dipping. Their eldest daughter said Grace before we ate. Lunch was delicious and we really enjoyed the village experience.
Wonderful People
The village people are just lovely, they are open, friendly, kind, generous uncomplicated people. They don't have much and they don't want much. Karl works five days a week in the Copra shed as a mechanic's assistant. He earns $20 a day which seems very little to us. Nora said they are mostly self sufficient and buy very little from the supermarket, usually just rice, sugar and washing powder. We guess Karl's biggest expense would be fuel for his boat.
How Can We Help?
We donated three lengths of rope no longer needed on our boat. Last time we travelled up this island chain we were often asked for spare rope. Used often to tie a roof down in strong wind or secure some livestock. I gave Nora a pair of polarised sun glasses, and we bought a bottle of Kiwi and Banana Syrup to lunch as a special treat for the girls.
On the way back to Eye Candy, Karl trawled a fishing line from his boat and caught a small Trevally fish. Never miss an opportunity and it paid off. We had a wonderful time and the memory of this experience will stay with us forever.
Always A Thrill
Tuesday we had a gentle sail, 40 miles on a beam reach in 15 knots of wind, to Luganville on the island of Espiritu Santo. This is the second biggest town in Vanauta after Port Vila. It is very busy and seems to have better hardware shops and you can buy most things here. We caught a Wahoo on passage which is one of our favourite fish. Three kilos of thick white succulent fillets, what more could we hope for, just wonderful.
So What's Next
Today we are anchored in calm water around the corner from Luganvile Harbour, which is a bit bouncy. It is a maintenance day and I have been busy washing sheets, towels and clothes, not that we wear much in 29 degrees temperature. Before leaving this area we will visit the Blue Holes, these are fresh water swimming holes, but more about that next time.
Until then stay safe and our love to all.
This article has been provided courtesy of the Freedom and Adventure.