Freedom and Adventure: Sailing New Caledonia
by Andrew & Clare Payne 13 Oct 2022 22:34 UTC
We are thoroughly enjoying the sailing ground around Nouméa.
Generally speaking the wind drops out at night and picks up again mid morning. So we soon learnt how to use the weather pattern to get us to and from the many Islots within the lagoon. Once behind the Islot we get protection from the wind and the sea is flat because the lagoon is surrounded by reef. It's just an easy place to sail and we have had some fabulous trips.
Because of Andrew's leg injury, we have needed to return to Nouméa twice a week for Doctor's visits. We have made the most of our limited freedom by visiting nearly all the nearby Ilots. We have been in company with Aussie mates Liam and Annie on 'Gone with the Wind'.
Some of the Highlights
We spent a few days on Mbe Kowen Islot, what a beautiful quiet spot anchored in about 10 meters of clear water. We swam in the shallows and watched the kite surfers just out from the Islot. The daily routine was a few chores on board, walks on the beach, relaxation and drinks on shore at sunset.
We sailed out to Isl Laregnere to join NZ friends Ted and Adrian on 'Otama' who commenced their passage to Australia the following morning. We had drinks on the beach and wished them fair winds. After a seven day trip, they are now relaxing in Gladstone.
Better News
Back to the Doctor on 30th September. He is happy with Andrew's progress, although we would like it to be much faster. He gave me new instructions for dressing the wound and set us free for two weeks - thanks goodness.
Completely Different Scenery
So 'Eye Candy' and 'Gone with the Wind' sailed forty miles back to Prony Bay at the south end of New Caledonia. There is lots to explore here and some interesting characters to meet. We anchored in Carenage Bay which is a hurricane hole as there are hills all around, glassy water and gorgeous scenery.
There are many bush walking tracks, fresh water rivers, cascades and a hot springs plunge pool.
On one of our walks we met Gil a Frenchman who has leased some land in a remote area by the river for the last thirty years. He is a keen gardener and over the years he has planted trees and shrubs around his space. Nine years ago he moved in permanently. His lease is reviewed annually and if not renewed, Gil has two weeks to vacate and remove everything.
This would be quite a feat as Gil has built a shack, a shed, a chicken house and pen. He also has a water tank with fresh water coming from the hill, a solar panel array, an outdoor area and Pizza oven, a car and a small tractor. He met us dressed in a sarong only and was quite a character. He is passionate about his country. When explaining the history he said it had been raped three times for wood, chrome and now nickel.
Prony Town
Old Prony town is quite interesting as in the last century it was a convict settlement. There is an old goal and some pretty graphic pictures and tales of punishment for misbehaving convicts. The settlement was there to log the timber. Today this pretty town is a base for a kayaking business and bush walking adventures.
Off to another Island
On our way back to Nouméa
We left Prony Bay Saturday and sailed with 'Gone with the Wind' back through the Woodin Passage towards Noumea. This is a narrow passage with a current running in and out with the tides. It's important to get the timing right as wind against tide would not be pleasant. This is the fifth time we have sailed through here. The passage is five miles long in the narrow section. We whistled through there with a part jib only and 3,8 knots of current with us. It was like a sleigh ride, woo hoo!
How good is this
We met Christian yesterday, Andrew has been talking to him on a Radio Net for a few months and previously in 2019. He has just arrived in New Caledonia after sailing his yacht from New Zealand via Lord Howe Is. Christian in ninety years old, a keen spear fisherman and he is now our inspiration. He said "no use sitting at home on the couch complaining about aches and pains' Wow!
We are here now
We are now anchored at the Island of Ouen some twenty miles from Nouméa. A lovely beach with an uninhabited resort, only a caretaker present. The weather is windy but we are OK here.
We need to be back in Noumea on Wednesday for - you guessed it, another Dr's appointment. We are also attending an information session on Thursday afternoon about checking in to Australia and importing the boat. After that we will be seriously looking for a weather window to cross to Australia. The trip should take us about six days, we will keep you informed of our departure date.
So until then stay safe and our love to all.
This article has been provided courtesy of the Freedom and Adventure.